November 30, 2024

10 days in Thailand guide and itinerary

What to do, what to see, where to go and what to eat in Thailand

We visited Thailand end of May-early June and did a lot of research regarding the monsoon season and where we could go to avoid the rain. Overall we really enjoyed it, the food was great, the people were lovely and there’s a lot to see, especially if you like Buddhist temples. Due to the heat/humidity, there are cockroaches around — which is one of the things I hate, but well what can you do!

Here are some general things to keep in mind: Dress modestly, especially when visiting temples (though you can rent a skirt if needed). My best tip is to carry a shawl or a linen shirt to cover your shoulders. Shorts are okay otherwise, but not super short. You have to take off your shoes in temples (and sometimes in other places, too, like massage places or certain restaurants). 

In 1939 Siam changed its name to Thailand. “The change was part of Phibun’s determination to bring his people into the modern world and at the same time to emphasise their unique identity.”

First stop in Thailand: Chang Mai 

Many guides mentioned this town as a must-visit when in Thailand, and we decided to include it in our itinerary. We also wanted to go to Chiang Rai, but there wasn’t enough time.

We booked Elliebum Hotel in the old centre and were really happy with the position. You can walk to the temples and see the main sights—that is, if you don’t melt!! Most people rent scooters, but we didn’t have a license, so we used taxis (Grab or Bolt—the latter is cheaper). 

The old city has the most Buddhist temples than the whole country in sq comparison with 28 temples. In terms of buildings, they are quite older looking. 

If you’re there on a Sunday the Night Marker is really nice. Loads of shops, stalls and food stalls with all sorts of things from clothing to handmade items and more. 

Wat Phra Singh Woramahawihan a big temple, no entrance fee and quite large. Very nice! 

Wat Phra Phut Chedi Luang a large temple with gardens in the middle of the old town.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – a stunning temple on top of the mountain. It’s about 30 mins from the old town with a taxi / Grab / Bolt. Keep in mind that if you get a Grab/Bolt you may need to negotiate a price so that the driver waits for you there, while you visit the temple, as it’s quite far and they don’t want to go. But if your hotel can book you a taxi directly, it might be preferred.

For our second day in Chiang Mai we booked a day trip to Doi Inthanon National Park to visit the highest mountain in Thailand, which is 2565 meters above sea level. We saw various things with an organised but small tour (we booked via our hotel -it was called Wendy Tour and it was a small group of 9- but websites like GetYourGuide also have various tours). The same tour can be done to include a 2-3 hour hike in the forest, which we didn’t do. We saw:

  • First stop: Two waterfalls. First waterfall is 80 meter high but swimming is not allowed for tourists. The second waterfall has the name of their queen and it’s about 40 meters. 
  • Second stop: walking around the highest point of Thailand and seeing the small Stupa dedicated to the king. 
  • Third stop: Twin pagoda (for the king and queen). This is considered an important monument like a temple so clothing should be respectful (no shorts, covered shoulders etc) 
  • Fourth stop: before the village we went to the local market where people sell products and foods they’ve made. 
  • White Karen tribe village (various Karen tribes around the mountains, like Red and others). They’ve lived here for over 150 years. In the Karen villages they produce rice (once a year) and coffee beans which they later on sell to support themselves, they call it the local coffee and they have products all around the country. Some people call it the coffee village. We stopped here for lunch and to see the village. This village is also known for production of opium – which is now illegal. 

In terms of food, there are a few local must-try’s. First off is Khao Soi and then Roast Chicken (Kai Yang). According to many reviews, the best Kai Yang is at SP Chicken in the old town and at Cherng Doi in the Nimman area (the newer part of town). We went to Cherng Doi, and we paid 505 BHT for two mango salads, one chicken, one pork neck, one beef, two waters, and a large beer. 

We also went to a lovely Japanese / Izakaya restaurant, Gekko and it was amazing and great value for money. The Sunday Night Market was great. We also went to another market that’s open everyday, and there’s a famous “cowboy” stall that you have a stewed pork leg dish called Khao Kha moo (60 baht per small portion). Finally we tried the traditional Khao Soi at Huen Phen restaurant. It’s traditional in Chiang Mai and the north of Thailand. In this region they don’t use coconut milk, only in this dish. You can have it with beef, chicken or pork. Here we paid 310 baht for two Khao Soi, one juice, two waters and one pork neck. 

In Thailand you have to get a massage! Traditional Thai massage is a combo of presses and stretching. We went to two places, one was really affordable, Blind Massage in the old town and it’s was 300 Baht for a foot massage with reflexology. The other one, Fah Lanna, though, was amazing. It was triple the price (900 for foot massage) but it was so worth it. We went to the branch in Nimman but they have one in the old town. The atmosphere was amazing, relaxing from the moment you step in. You fill out a form with any health issues you might have, then are given some cold tea and a cold towel and are taken to the other room. They clean your feet first, as feet are well considered the dirtiest part of the body. We were then taken into another room and given clothes to change. The foot massage was amazing, and at the end, they also did a 5-minute massage on the upper back and shoulder with stretches. It’s customary to tip 50-100 baht. 

In the Nimman area we also went to One Nimman a big mall that also has a variety of stalls with clothing, accessories, vintage items and a dj! This is on every Monday and Tuesday between 4-10pm. 

In terms of shopping and seeing all the different boutiques and markers I recommend walking the Rachadamnoen Road with various boutiques and shops like Chanya Shops and Gallery, Chiangmai Cotton and more. There’s also so many cute coffee shops and restaurants here, some we spotted: Kati, Stories. Then you can see The Phae Gate which was originally built in 1296 but then re-built in 1985-1986. Then continue walking to Chinatown and enter the market. It’s huge and they’re so many shops and also food stalls. 

3 days in Bangkok itinerary and guide

We spent three days in Bangkok and I’d definitely add one more to be able to see things a bit further out, like the Railway and Floating Markets, located around 1.5 hours away. You need a minimum of half a day, perhaps longer, to see the major temples. Factor in potential rain depending on the season – though there’s always a possibility of rain due to the extreme heat. It rained twice while we were there; one was at night, so it wasn’t an issue, and the other was in the morning, so it ruined our plans to see the temples that day. 

In terms of where to stay, it depends on what type of holiday you want. The famous backpacker’s area is Khaosan Road, and it’s also quite lively, more budget-friendly and a good party area. Plus, you’re close to many of the major temples. If that’s not your style and you prefer to be more central, you should check out the area near Lumphini Park and Silom. We stayed near Lumphini, at Montien Hotel and it was perfect. The hotel was really nice, spacious, very clean, good breakfast and the staff were super kind and helpful. Plus, it was very close to BTS (the overground train) and the metro so it was easy to get around the city. 

@fani.mari0 Perks of being on the 14th floor! #bangkok #bangkokthailand #bangkoktravel #sunsetlover #thailandtravel #thailandtrip #thailandtraveltips #thailandtravels #montienhotelbangkok ♬ Sunsets (feat. Olivia Lunny) – Nurko

Another area that comes recommended is Riverside. But I think the transportation there is a little tricky, so if you don’t have a bike/car it might not be the best. 

Wherever you decide to stay, I’d recommend being close to both BTS and metro. Makes going around so much easier, especially because of the heat! 

Shopping in Bangkok

If you’re from overseas you can claim back VAT (5%) on your shopping. There are so many shopping malls which provide a break from the heat! MBK is the biggest one with 2000 (!) stores – we didn’t like it but it was good to pass the time. We also visited Siam One, Paragon, CentralWorld, Icon Siam and more. We liked Paragon and Icon Siam the most. I also got some Apple products and claimed the tax back

I also love Don Don Donki, even though the song will be stuck in your head 24/7. It’s a Japanese store with snacks, beauty products, makeup, unique Kit Kats, and even Kobe beef. 

Chatuchak Market: the biggest market in Bangkok, it’s open only on weekends 9:00-18:00. 

Siam Square is also fun with many stores and boutiques and at night there’s live music. 

Things to do in Bangkok

Jim Thompson House & Museum: He was the one who brought silk to Europe and introduced it to the Thai people. Initially, he had a hotel business in Thailand (now it’s the Mandarin Oriental). In 1948, together with Charles Lee Burwell, he created Thaibok Fabrics. 

He mysteriously disappeared when he was 61, going for a hike on a holiday. He didn’t have any children, so when he disappeared, his nephew inherited the house, but no one visited. They donated it to the Jim Thompson Foundation, and it was then transformed into a museum.  

Chinatown: it’s huge and worth exploring, with various tourist attractions and museums and of course shops! 

We didn’t have time to go to any floating markets but it looks like a fun thing to do. There’s one in Bangkok city called Bang Nam Phueng but the biggest one is around 1.5 hours away, Damnoen Saduak. 

Erawan Museum is known for its huge sculpture of a three-headed elephant. We didn’t have time to go sadly. 

Lumphini Park is a 142-acre park with laces and beautiful nature. If you live nearby, it’s worth a visit. 

Also, if you are a Soho House member and have some free time, the Bangkok House is kinda near the airport and it was so nice!

Temples in Bangkok

There are so many stunning Buddhist temples around town. I’ve created a Google map link that might be useful for seeing them all.

  • Wat Benchamabophit Dusitwanaram is an incredible marble temple with huge gorgeous gardens. Free entry
  • Wat  (The Golden Mount). You have to go up 341 steps to reach a fantastic gold shrine. Go up to the pagoda to enjoy views of the whole city! 100 baht per person
  • Grand Palace & the Emerald Buddha, located in the first big temple, go inside to see him. He’s smaller than expected, though, but the room is beautiful. This is the former palace and museum and it is huge with endless gardens, many temples and incredible colours and decorations. Wear a hat! I’d recommend going early or late in the day. We went around 11am and it was too hot. 500 baht per person 
  • Wat Pho. The big highlight is the HUGE, gold, reclining Buddha. And the rest of the building are beautiful too. 200 entrance 
  • Wat Arun. Just across from Wat Pho, you take a 5-minute ferry (5 baht ticket). The ticket is 100 per person. 

Food in Bangkok

Jai Fay: if you are keen to try this famous Michelin-starred restaurant be prepared to wait. We didn’t want to wait for this long but here’s what we found when we went there. they open at 9am and you can go queue from 7am. You are then added to a list and you might have to wait 6 hours to sit, but if your name is called and you’re not there you lose your spot. 

Thapsamai: next to Jai Fay you’ll find a restaurant from 1939, with the original Pad Thai. It’s great and amazing service. 

Street food is king in Thailand and there’s countless markets and stalls everywhere! 

The Sixth: A good option after visiting Wat Arun and Wat Pho. We had green curry, Tom kha gai, spring rolls and veggies and it was all great! Remember to ask for non spicy! Unless you can handle it. It’s still a little spicy. We also got a coconut, two waters and mango sticky rice and paid 645 Baht. 

Drinks in Bangkok

Rooftops are a must here! We tried Hi-So (29-30th floor of So Hotel) and it had great views. I imagine it would be lovely during sunset. 

Transportation in Bangkok

Probably the easiest way to go around is by motorcycle, but we didn’t have a license, so we used mainly public transport and taxis. If you opt for taxis, pick Bolt over Grab. We used both apps, but Bolt was cheaper, and we found a car on Bolt even when we couldn’t get one on Grab. If you get a taxi from the street, ensure they have the taxi meter on as soon as you start your journey. 

The BTS is great—it’s overground and super clean. You can also take a ferry, which is helpful depending on your location. For example, we took one from Jim Thompson’s house to one of the temples. You pay on the boat, and they are very helpful, as the map doesn’t clearly show which boat goes where. 

The buses are new and old. The old are… an experience!! No windows, very old school, I guess it’s safe but it doesn’t look like it 😂 You pay on the bus. 

BTS and metro are both very good. You buy a ticket according to your destination. 

Third stop: Koh Samui 

Our final stop on this trip was an island! The ultimate relaxation right? By the way the airport is completely outdoors and it was so unique!

Where to stay? The beaches of Chewang and the Fisherman’s Village are the most popular choices. We stayed at Mercure in Chewang. The beach was clean and the water was clear. The rooms were great and the rates were about 100 euros per night.

Transportation in Samui

If you want to leave the airport, organise a pickup with your hotel. Apparently Grab drivers aren’t allowed to go to the airport, due to some local “taxi Mafia” of sorts. Alternatively there are mini bus companies that can drop you off at the hotel with a fee of around 140 per person. Around town there’s many “buses” (see below) that will honk when they see you walk. You can always negotiate the price beforehand. 

Things to do in Samui

Samui Elephant Sanctuary (+66 95 269 8343): From our research this is the only sanctuary that doesn’t allow non ethical activities like climbing and bathing. They have rescued 30 elephants. In this location they have 7 elephants, which were used for circuses, moving people around, found shows etc. 

This place is expensive: 3000 baht per person for 4-5 hours (around 85 euros). But the money goes to the conservation of elephants and their support in their natural habitat. 

Elephants need 200 litres of water a day, and they eat a lot—10% of their body weight, and they weigh 3-6 tonnes. We saw Asian elephants, which are different from African elephants. They have more colours on their faces (like beige) and two bumps on their heads. The elephants here are between 50 and 65 years old. 

Fisherman’s village Bophut: It has a big market open daily from 6pm. Many places to eat, shop etc. The one on Sunday is a big smaller apparently, but we still thought it was pretty big! 

There’s also a big walking street market near Central Samui shopping centre, open only Thu – Sun so we didn’t go as we didn’t have the time. 

You can do a few day trips from Samui. We chose two, a half day to Pig Island (Mat Sum) and snorkelling at Tean Island. We booked it via an agent at our hotel with a company called Sunny Samui. We paid 1500 baht per person. They picked us up from our hotel at 8:40 and we headed to the port and got on a speedboat. The group was medium-sized; it was 20 of us. You get 1 and 1/2 hours at pig island, where you can feed them (50 baht per bag of food) and pet them. The sea here isn’t great but it’s relatively clean. Then we headed to Tean island for snorkelling and lunch. At 13:30 we were back at the port and dropped off at our hotel around 14:00. To be honest I’m not sure the pigs are treated well — so I wouldn’t revisit, even though they were adorable.

The second trip we did was to Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park. This marine Park is comprised of many small islands and incredible viewpoints. We booked through here (3700 baht for two plus 600 for the entrance fee to the park). To note, this website is like a marketplace for tours, the company we ended up with is Mr. Tu and they were very organised, friendly and helpful. 

Our group was 40 people, and we were on a speedboat, so it only took about 1 hour to reach our first destination. Kayaking and snorkelling equipment is included in the price, but you need to pay extra if you want to buy the special sea shoes, or if you want to drink beer on board. The first stop was for snorkelling at Koh Wao, where we saw some yellow and dark red corals. Then we stopped at the first island Sam Sao for kayaking and lunch. The second island, Mae Ko is home to Ta Le Nai Lagoon, where the film The Beach with Leonardo DiCaprio was filmed. 

The final stop was the big hike at the National Park (Koh Wua Talap). The island is very beautiful and serene and you might even see some monkeys!! Hiking to the viewpoint (500 meters) wasn’t mandatory. However, the view from up there, despite the difficulty of the hike (the rocky steps were a little steep, plus it was 14:30 and extremely hot), made it all worth it! They say this is the most impressive view of the Gulf of Thailand, and you can observe some of the 42 islands of the National Park. This was one of the best things on our trip, hands down!  

Best places to eat in Koh Samui

Malee: really good food, very attentive staff. The Massaman was amazing. We came here twice as the food was great overall, as well as the service  and it was near our hotel. 

Khaw Glong: nice place at the city centre of Chaweng, not too touristy and away from the “strip”. The food was good and the service was great. We had crab meat curry, mamma noodles with pork and Massaman, two beers and a water and we paid 1250 baht. 

The Thai Tapas: this place is at Fisherman’s Village, but away from the touristy restaurants. It’s super nicely decorated, great island vibes and amazing service. You get unlimited rice which is naturally coloured in pink (dragonfruit skin), blue (pea flower) or yellow (turmeric). The portions are bigger than your typical “tapas” but smaller than a main portion, they recommend 3-4 plates for two people. We ended up getting 4, they were all good, particularly the shrimp and beef dishes. It was certainly the most expensive meal we had in Thailand. It was 1675 baht for 4 plates, one wine, one water and one beer, which is about 45 euros. 

@fani.mari0 Super nice restaurant we found at Bophut/Fisherman’s Village in Koh Samui. They are plastic-free and colour the rice with natural colouring (turmeric, blue pea flower, and dragon fruit skin)! #thaitapas #fishermansvillage #bophutbeach #bophut #kohsamui #kosamuithailand #kosamui🏝🌅 #thailandfood #samuifood #kohsamuifood ♬ original sound – fani.mari0

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