Central saint martins MA Fashion / LFW Day 1

The Central Saint Martins MA show is the best way to spot and get to know the designers of the future.

In my case it was even more interesting to see this show and the final result of the students’ collections as my Journalism course is closely connected to the Design course (both under MA Fashion) and have seen most of their collections develop since November.

Specifically, I have been working with Irish designer, Rory Parnell-Mooney, whose collection was inspired by the Church and the clothes of nuns and priests. So definitely it was really exciting being part of a collection and see it develop and finally see it on the catwalk in front of industry people that can decide the future for the students graduating next month. Whether they decide to create their own brand or join in an already established one, they are the greatest and brightest the highly acclaimed CSM has to offer.

What made this show even more interesting is that two designers (instead of one) received the L’ Oréal Professionel Creative Award, judged by CSM alumni Christopher Kane.

Womenswear designer Teruhiro Hasegawa, recipient of the Jane Rapley Scholarship and Chloé Award winner, opened the show. Her collection featured silk floor sweeping dresses, in black and white, often juxtaposed by splashes of red. The models had their eyes covered and wore see-through long gloves, a great combination with the intricate pleats and strong structured shoulders.

Drew Henry is the recipient of AHRC Bursary, Chloé Award Winner and J. Crew Cashmere Project winner. His focus on the female figure is not obvious at first but the slits of the boxy silhouettes make the woman very sensual. The military inspired colour palette of khaki and navy and the animal skin makes it the perfect outfit for a modern day fashion forward cow girl.

Graham Fan presented a monochrome collection of skirts, tops and coats in graphite grey and black created by weaving what appears to be cassette tape film. The see-through plastic pumps give a greater emphasis to the simple, but still strong and intricate clothes.

Jessica Mort, a fashion Textile student, has received the Stella McCartney Scholarship. Her long fringed baseball-style tops featured coloroured fading stripes. Following the lead of the fading colours are the seams that look as if they are coming loose. The remaining fabric of long fringes create a waterfall illusion as they sweep the floor. The monochrome palazzo pants provide a sense of structure.

Anita Hirlekar is another Textile design student and the recipient of Isabella Blow Foundation MA Fashion Fund and J. Crew Cashmere Project winner. Her clothes resemble abstract art paintings, with weaving threads creating patchwork designs. The coloured tights showing through parts of the clothes were a great finishing detail.

Nayuko Yamamoto, another Textile student paid a strong focus on geometric shapes, with thick white squares that made her long shirts float above the models’ bodies. The multi-coloured sparkly shirts and trousers featured prints of dots and leaves.

Fiona Blakeman, recipient of Isabella Blow Foundation MA Fashion Fund, showed black jersey dresses torn in parts and covered up with beige fishnet revealing bare flesh underneath. With a reference to a battlefield Blakeman’s women are winning the battle and look good doing it.

Rory Parnell-Mooney, menswear designer and recipient of L’ Oréal Professionnel Scholarship presented a collection of navy, black and ice blue with an interesting use of accessories. Long flat scarves, bibs and low hung hats covering the face were combined with thick knitted jumpers and fitted or wide-leg two toned trousers. Whoever said total black is boring was clearly wrong.

Serena Gili, is a Knitwear student and the recipient of Sarabande MA Scholarship and J. Crew Cashmere Project winner. She gave a makeover to the egg-shaped acrylic skirts of her BA collection and showed them in midi and mini lengths in black and nude. Juxtaposing the strong look of the skirts are the beaded tops that create geometric shapes and feature fur at parts.

Ondrej Adamek, Samsung Award winner and L’ Oréal Professionel first prize winner, showed feminine dresses that had flower-like structures that sometimes obscuringthe models’ faces as if in full bloom. His colour palette featured different tones of blue and pink; spring in all its glory.

Michael Power the recipient of L’ Oréal Professionnel Scholarship and second prize winner and Chloé Award winner closed the show. His all black mesh tunics and jackets featured heavily beaded colourful shapes hanging low over short shorts, worn with boot-like cylinders around the models’ feet.